Friday, November 11, 2011

The holy Ganges

A few weeks ago I was walking down the riverside of the Ganges and was staring at a bone on the shore and I was thinking to myself, "Is that a human bone?" And when I saw a pack of dogs wildly biting into a piece of flesh - their faces red with blood - I was thinking, "Is that human flesh?" When I chose to sleep on a caged rooftop that overlooked the entire city, open to the air, and I woke up in the middle of the night, face to face with a monkey, and I saw the massive burning ghat smouldering into the night, and I smelled that strange smell, I was thinking, "Oh yeah, I forgot about those burning bodies down there." And when a local man pointed out the raw sewage pouring into the river, then took a handful of Ganges water, smiled at me, and drank it, I was thinking, "I wonder if he got a few bits of burnt human bone in that gulp."

Truth of the matter is, a lot of dying Hindus have been going to Varanasi, over a lot of centuries to gain their ensured release from the endless cycle of reincarnation. Once burned, their ashes are tossed into the holy river. And for various reasons, a lot of dead bodies are not burned, but simply tied to a rock and thrown to the bottom of the river. Add in some serious industrial waste and sewage waste, and the fact that most residents of Varanasi drink the water daily, and you've got a recipe for "What the fuck." With all those bits of bones, at least the people don't need to worry about a calcium deficiency.

Here is my heart-stoppingly incredible rendition of Varanasi in MS Paint:

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